Mt. Shisha Pangma Expedition

Trip Introduction

Shisha Pangma the 14th highest peak of the world is considered as one of the easiest 8000 M mountains to climb to its Central Summit (8013m), though the main summit (8027m) is quite technical and has not been climbed after 2013. Shisha Pangma is  is located almost due north of Kathmandu entirely on the Tibetan side of the Himalaya. The peak is characterized by its long, steep, craggy southern face rising over 2000m, making it an imposing sight to all would be climbers. The Indian-Nepalese name for the peak is Gosaitan, which denotes “The Holy Place”. The Tibetan name for the mountain is Xixapangma. . It’s name literally translates to “The mountain overlooking the grassy plains”.

Shisha Pangma was the last of the 8000m peaks to be climbed. The first ascent is credited to Hsu Ching and his ten-man Chinese climbing team in 1964. The team was composed of Chang Chun-yen, Wang Fu-zhou, Chen San, Cheng Tien-liang,Wu Tsung-yue, Sodnam Doji, Migmar Trashi, Doji, Yonten. Shisha Pangma was finally opened to foreign teams in 1980. The first U.S. ascent took place in September 1983, via the mountains Northeast Face, by Mike Browning, Chris Pizzo and Glenn Porzak. By 2003, Shisha Pangma had only recorded 201 successful ascents (to the main summit) and 19 fatalities. As of January of 2000, over 434 people have successfully made the climb to the Central Summit, but only 165 people have continued to the Main Summit, just over an hours climb away, separated by a knife edge ridge of sometimes very unstable snow. This data was collected and published by Jan Kielowski.

Alex Lowe, one of America’s strongest and best-known climbers, died on Shisha Pangma after an avalanche struck on 26,291-foot October 5, 1999, also killed in the avalanche was cameraman David Bridges who was filming the ascent for a documentary. World reknown climber and friend of Lowe, Conrad Anker was also caught in the avalanche but survived.

The first winter ascent is credited to Simone Moro and Peter Morawsky who completed the ascent on the 14th of January 2005. Information on this climb can be found here.

Outline Itinerary

• • Day 01
  • Arrival In Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel (1,350m)
• • Day 02
  • Rest day in Kathmandu: Tibet Visa PreparationRest day in Kathmandu: Tibet Visa Preparation
• • Day 03
  • Tibet Visa Issue and Expedition briefing
• • Day 04
  • Rest In Kathmandu
• • Day 05
  • Drive from Kathmandu to Timure
• • Day 06
  • Cross the border of Nepal and Drive to Kerung (1962m)
• • Day 07
  • Drive from Kerung in Old Thingri (4,300m)
• • Day 08
  • Acclimatization and Preparation day in Old Thingri
• • Day 09
  • Drive from Old Thingrito Shisha Pangma Chinese Basecamp (5,220m)
• • Day 10
  • Acclimatisation at Chinese Basecamp (rest day)
• • Day 11
  • Chinese Basecamp to Shisha Pangma Advance Basecamp (5,400m)
• • Day 12-30
  • Day 12 - Day 30: Climbing Period [Adv. Basecamp - Summit(8,027m) - Adv.Basecamp] -
• • Day 31
  • Descend from Advance Basecamp to Chinese Basecamp
• • Day 32
  • Drive back from Chinese Basecamp to Thingri
• • Day 33
  • Drive from Thingrito Kerung
• • Day 34
  • Cross the border and drive to Kathmandu (Overnight stay at Hotel)
• • Day 35
  • Leisure day in Kathmandu City
• • Day 36
  • Transfer to the Tribhuvan International Airport for final departure