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Mt. Shisha Pangma Expedition

  • Duration:
    36 Days
  • Max-Altitude:
    26,335 ft /8027m

Trip Introduction

Shisha Pangma the 14th highest peak of the world is considered as one of the easiest 8000 M mountains to climb to its Central Summit (8013m), though the main summit (8027m) is quite technical and has not been climbed after 2013. Shisha Pangma is  is located almost due north of Kathmandu entirely on the Tibetan side of the Himalaya. The peak is characterized by its long, steep, craggy southern face rising over 2000m, making it an imposing sight to all would be climbers. The Indian-Nepalese name for the peak is Gosaitan, which denotes “The Holy Place”. The Tibetan name for the mountain is Xixapangma. . It’s name literally translates to “The mountain overlooking the grassy plains”.

Shisha Pangma was the last of the 8000m peaks to be climbed. The first ascent is credited to Hsu Ching and his ten-man Chinese climbing team in 1964. The team was composed of Chang Chun-yen, Wang Fu-zhou, Chen San, Cheng Tien-liang,Wu Tsung-yue, Sodnam Doji, Migmar Trashi, Doji, Yonten. Shisha Pangma was finally opened to foreign teams in 1980. The first U.S. ascent took place in September 1983, via the mountains Northeast Face, by Mike Browning, Chris Pizzo and Glenn Porzak. By 2003, Shisha Pangma had only recorded 201 successful ascents (to the main summit) and 19 fatalities. As of January of 2000, over 434 people have successfully made the climb to the Central Summit, but only 165 people have continued to the Main Summit, just over an hours climb away, separated by a knife edge ridge of sometimes very unstable snow. This data was collected and published by Jan Kielowski.

Alex Lowe, one of America’s strongest and best-known climbers, died on Shisha Pangma after an avalanche struck on 26,291-foot October 5, 1999, also killed in the avalanche was cameraman David Bridges who was filming the ascent for a documentary. World reknown climber and friend of Lowe, Conrad Anker was also caught in the avalanche but survived.

The first winter ascent is credited to Simone Moro and Peter Morawsky who completed the ascent on the 14th of January 2005. Information on this climb can be found here.

Outline Itinerary

    • Day 01
    • Arrival In Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel (1,350m)
    • Day 02
    • Rest day in Kathmandu: Tibet Visa PreparationRest day in Kathmandu: Tibet Visa Preparation
    • Day 03
    • Tibet Visa Issue and Expedition briefing
    • Day 04
    • Rest In Kathmandu
    • Day 05
    • Drive from Kathmandu to Timure
    • Day 06
    • Cross the border of Nepal and Drive to Kerung (1962m)
    • Day 07
    • Drive from Kerung in Old Thingri (4,300m)
    • Day 08
    • Acclimatization and Preparation day in Old Thingri
    • Day 09
    • Drive from Old Thingrito Shisha Pangma Chinese Basecamp (5,220m)
    • Day 10
    • Acclimatisation at Chinese Basecamp (rest day)
    • Day 11
    • Chinese Basecamp to Shisha Pangma Advance Basecamp (5,400m)
    • Day 12-30
    • Day 12 - Day 30: Climbing Period [Adv. Basecamp - Summit(8,027m) - Adv.Basecamp] -
    • Day 31
    • Descend from Advance Basecamp to Chinese Basecamp
    • Day 32
    • Drive back from Chinese Basecamp to Thingri
    • Day 33
    • Drive from Thingrito Kerung
    • Day 34
    • Cross the border and drive to Kathmandu (Overnight stay at Hotel)
    • Day 35
    • Leisure day in Kathmandu City
    • Day 36
    • Transfer to the Tribhuvan International Airport for final departure
    • Day 01
    • Arrival In Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel (1,350m)

      Arrival In Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel (1,350m)

    • Day 02
    • Rest day in Kathmandu: Tibet Visa PreparationRest day in Kathmandu: Tibet Visa Preparation
    • Day 03
    • Tibet Visa Issue and Expedition briefing

      Tibet Visa Issue and Expedition briefing

    • Day 04
    • Rest In Kathmandu
    • Day 05
    • Drive from Kathmandu to Timure
    • Day 06
    • Cross the border of Nepal and Drive to Kerung (1962m)
    • Day 07
    • Drive from Kerung in Old Thingri (4,300m)
    • Day 08
    • Acclimatization and Preparation day in Old Thingri
    • Day 09
    • Drive from Old Thingrito Shisha Pangma Chinese Basecamp (5,220m)
    • Day 10
    • Acclimatisation at Chinese Basecamp (rest day)
    • Day 11
    • Chinese Basecamp to Shisha Pangma Advance Basecamp (5,400m)
    • Day 12-30
    • Day 12 - Day 30: Climbing Period [Adv. Basecamp - Summit(8,027m) - Adv.Basecamp] -
    • Day 31
    • Descend from Advance Basecamp to Chinese Basecamp
    • Day 32
    • Drive back from Chinese Basecamp to Thingri
    • Day 33
    • Drive from Thingrito Kerung
    • Day 34
    • Cross the border and drive to Kathmandu (Overnight stay at Hotel)
    • Day 35
    • Leisure day in Kathmandu City
    • Day 36
    • Transfer to the Tribhuvan International Airport for final departure
Cost Include:

 

  • All arrival and departure transfer services to and from an international airport with other necessary surface transportation as per itinerary
  • Assistance at the international airport by our representative upon arrival and departure
  • 6 nights request level of  hotel accommodation in Kathmandu as per itinerary
  • Truck for expedition equipment from Kathmandu-Kerung-Kathmandu.
  • Land transportation from Kathmandu to shisha pangma Base camp and Shisha pangma base Camp to kathmandu
  • Chinese custom clearances at the border
  • Chinese Government Royalty for Shishapagma expedition for group and climbing Sherpa guide
  • Chinese visa for base camp staff, Sherpa and climbing group
  • 1:1 Climbing Sherpa guide/client ratio
  • TMA or CTMA selected English speaking Chinese liaison officer and interpreter
  • All camping equipment in base camp and advanced base camp
  • Full board hotel in-route to Tibet: Lhasa, Tingri, Shigatse (B/L/D) provided by CTMA
  • Food during expedition period for expedition members and staff
  • Tibet Visa and travel permit for expedition crew
  • Expedition permit to climbing  Shishapangma along the northwest ridge route
  • Permanent kitchen facilities at advanced base camp
  • All staff during the expedition period. This includes an experienced guide, base camp manager and other personnel as needed.
  • Ground transportation will be available as per itinerary
  • Cargo clearance duties assistance service free
  • Daily wages, equipment allowance & insurance for expedition staff
  • Solar panels for light and battery charging
  • High quality and durable personal tent at base camp and advanced base camp
  • Permanent kitchen and dining facilities at advanced base camp
  • Shower facility at base camp and advanced base camp
  • All necessary climbing hardware and ropes
  • High-quality meals at BC, ABC, higher camps. Freeze-dried meals on the climbing route
  • Hot drinks and beverages available24 hours a day during the climbing expedition
  • High-quality freeze-dried food for Sherpa and staff during the climbing period
  • 2 oxygen bottles with mask and regulators (if requested by client)
  • We provide Sherpa’s tents, food for climbing, and insurance
  • Icefalls charges
  • All tents for the higher camps 1, 2, 3 ·
  • EPI gas and burners for cooking food above base camp
  • All wages, equipment, medical and accidental insurance for the chef, climbing Sherpa guide and base camp staff
  • All necessary camping equipment like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, kitchen tent, shower, toilet tents, etc
  • 50kg baggage allowance per person during the trekking period (carried by yak)
  • The truck will be provided at Kerung border crossing into Chinese base camp
  • Yaks carry the loads from Chinese base camp to middle camp to advanced base camp
  • Experienced, trained and government-licensed climbing guide(s) during the climbing period per person as per request
  • First aid medical kits for the group and the staff
  • Satellite phone carried by the guide. Available for clients at a cost of $3USD per minute
  • Appropriate high altitude food for all climbing staff at base camp and above as required
  • Emergency oxygen and mask regulator
  • All necessary paperwork, office service charge, and government taxes levied in Nepal
  • Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation, and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
  • Farewell dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure
Cost Exclude:

 

  • Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the farewell dinner)
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars during the trekking
  • Items of personal nature, Laundry, expenses, tips
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in government regulations, etc
  • Extra transportation that is not display in itinerary program
  • Any additional staff other than specified
  • Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses
  • Medical insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required
  • Travel insurance and helicopter rescue
  • Walkies -talkies Filming permit (if special camera)
  • Personal climbing gear
  • Expenses incurred during usage of landlines, mobiles, walkies -talkies, satellite phone and internet
  • Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, camera/video fees or trekking gear
  • Nepal custom fees for import of expedition equipment
  • Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa guides as per Mountaineering Association rules. Minimum $1000.00USD per climbing Sherpa guide
  • Tips and gifts for base camp and high altitude trekking and climbing staff
  • Airfare of international flights
  • Nepal entry visa fee
  • Any extra services, products, offers or activities that are not mentioned in the itinerary
  • Any other item not included in “COST INCLUDES” section
  • Trekking

    • Hiking-Poles
      Hiking Poles
    • Trekking-windproof-jacket
      Trekking Wind Proof Jacket
    • Trekking-water-bottle
      Water Bottle
    • Trekking-T-shirt
      Trekking T Shirt
    • Trekking-sun-cream
      Sun Cream
    • Trekking-sunglasses
      Sun Glasses
    • Trekking-socks
      Socks
    • Trekking-sleeping-bag
      Rain Coat
    • Trekking-Shoes
      Trekking Shoes
    • Trekking-Rain-coat
      Rain Coat
    • Trekking-Pant
      Trekking Pants
    • Trekking-inner-thermal
      Inner Thermal
    • Trekking-Head-Lamp
      Head Lamp
    • Trekking-Hat
      Hat
    • Thin-Trekking-Gloves
      Thin Gloves
    • Thick-Trekking-Gloves
      Thick Gloves
    • Trekking-Flips-Sweater
      Flip Sweater
    • Trekking-Down-Jacket
      Down Jacket
    • Trekking-Bag
      Trekking Bag
    • Portable-Charger
      Portable Charger
    • sun-glasses
      Sun Glasses
  • Climbing

    • harness
      Harness
    • ice-axe
      Ice Axe
    • lip-Guard
      Lip Guard
    • lock-carabiner
      Lock Carabiners
    • mid-weight-top
      Mid Weight Top
    • Prusick-loops
      Prusick Loop
    • snow-goggles
      Snow Goggles
    • summit-gloves
      Summit Gloves
    • summit-socks
      Summit Socks
    • swiss-Knife
      Swiss Knife
    • tape-sling
      Tape Sling
    • Thermal-Mattress-Cell-Foam
      Thermal Mattress Cell Foam
    • Thermal-Mattress-inflatable
      Thermal Mattress Inflatable
    • thermos
      Thermos

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